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Michigan Travel Guide

Historic Treasures
and Local Haunts Stir
Imaginations In
Traverse City,
Michigan, By Michael
A. Norton
It’s hard not to get
a
little spooked at night
if you’re walking around
the Grand Traverse
Commons. Surrounded
by thick forest, the
turreted buildings of
Traverse City’s former
mental asylum loom out
of the darkness like
ruined castles, filled
with strange shadows and
furtive rustlings. Over
the year's
legends about ghostly
appearances have
accumulated around the
19th century
asylum, which is being
gradually redeveloped
into a
smart “village” of
condos, boutiques,
offices and restaurants.
There are stories of
mournful apparitions in
the halls, strange
physical sensations –
and even an enormous
gnarled tree that’s
supposed to mark the
“gateway to Hell.”
It's not hard to let you
imagination run away
with you when you catch
a glimpse of the
remaining structures
awaiting to be restored
on the 500-acre Commons
campus. The gaunt,
crumbling hulks cast
long shadows in the
twilight and stirs up
thoughts of restless
souls roaming through
the halls and corridors.
Every year, fans of
haunting and spooks
visit the Commons in
search of thrills and
chills, even though the
owners of the property
don’t exactly encourage
the attention. “There’s
a
ton of us who live and
work here, and I’ve only
heard one or two stories
about things people
couldn’t explain,” says
Kristen Messner, who
works for the project
developers. “These are
old buildings, and sound
sometimes travels in
strange ways. That’s
it.”
The
attitude toward
hauntings is
a
bit more welcoming
a
few miles up the coast
at the Grand Traverse
Lighthouse Museum. For
years, the isolated
lighthouse at the tip of
the Leelanau Peninsula
has held
a
family-oriented “haunted
lighthouse” program in
honor of its own ghostly
inhabitant, and it now
has added
a
series of October “ghost
walks.” Small groups of
visitors are invited in
on Friday and Saturday
nights to prowl the
living quarters and
working spaces of the
historic 19th
century buildings.
Established in 1850, the
Grand Traverse
Lighthouse is
one of the oldest lights
on the Great Lakes. It
occupies
a
lonely point of rocky
coast, which is now the
site of
a state park,
marking the outer edge
of Grand Traverse Bay,
with sweeping views of
Lake Michigan and the
distant Manitou and Fox
Islands. One believer in
the
lighthouse ghost is
museum director Stefanie
Staley, who has spent
more than her share of
fall evenings alone at
the isolated light
station. She says she’s
heard lots of
inexplicable noises:
voices in the hall
heading toward the tower
stairs, and the sound of
someone with hard-soled
shoes walking across the
hardwood floors. “I hear
it, I walk out, and
there’s not
a
soul anywhere,” she
says.
Nor is
Staley the only one
who’s been dealing with
strange happenings. The
lighthouse runs
a
volunteer keeper program
where people can stay in
the lighthouse for weeks
at a
time, caring for the
buildings and showing
visitors around. Over
the years, several
volunteers have
mentioned strange
phenomena: the sensation
of being brushed past by
a
moving form, and in one
case actually seeing
a
man at the doorway,
kicking off his boots.
Some locals claim the
ghost is that of Peter
Nelson,
a Danish ship
captain who settled in
Northport and became the
lighthouse keeper from
1874 to 1890. But no one
knows of any particular
scandals or secrets
associated with Nelson’s
life, and the haunting –
if that’s what it is –
seems to be
a
fairly amiable one.
Not so with the
goings-on across the bay
at Bowers Harbor,
a
lovely cove on the
western shore of the Old
Mission Peninsula, where
the area’s most
celebrated ghost has
been carrying on at the
former
Bowers Harbor Inn
for decades. Genevive
Stickney, whose husband
built the rambling
waterfront home in the
1880s, is said to have
died in the house under
tragic circumstances.
Although recent research
has cast doubt on much
of the backstory told
about the Stickneys
(that Genevive was
a
scorned wife who
committed suicide by
hanging herself in the
elevator shaft), the
case has been featured
in several books and
television programs.
Guests,
employees and visitors
to the inn, which is now
home of the
Mission Table Restaurant,
insist that they have
experienced strange
rapping noises, doors
slamming, lights
suddenly turning on,
mirrors and paintings
falling from walls. One
restaurant guest was
severely frightened when
she looked into
a
full-length upstairs
mirror and saw the
reflection of another
woman standing behind
her – dressed in
clothing from the 19th
century, her long hair
pulled back into
a
tight bun. When she
turned to speak to the
stranger, there was no
one there.
Having
a
ghost on the premises
isn’t bad for business,
so long as things don’t
get out of hand. Far
from downplaying their
ethereal resident, the
owners of the Mission
Table and the adjoining
Jolly Pumpkin Brewery
enjoy regaling newcomers
with tales of Genevive’s
pranks. The restaurant
has even devoted
a
page of its website to
the ghostly legend,
which you can visit here
-
http://missiontable.net/legend.
Plan Your Trip
Ghost
walks at the Grand
Traverse Lighthouse
Museum are held every
Friday and Saturday in
October, starting at 7
p.m. Groups are limited
to 12 persons, and
tickets are $5 per
person; to make an
advance reservation,
call (231) 386-7195.
For
information about other
winter attractions and
activities in the
Traverse City area, and
for help choosing
lodging and dining,
visit the Traverse City
Convention & Visitors
Bureau at
www.TraverseCity.com
To view current events, attractions, and packages available throughout Michigan visit www.michigan.org.
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